How to Hike Rainbow Mountain in Peru Without the Crowds
When we decided to hike Rainbow Mountain in Peru while on our South America backpacking trip, I was initially a little skeptical. I’d seen photos online where people said the colors weren’t that vivid and I’d read how crowded the place gets. So my immediate question was, is Rainbow Mountain worth it?
To me it was, but it really depends on how you decide to visit Rainbow Mountain. In this article, I share my experience, what I’d do differently, how to book a tour from Cusco or how to hike Rainbow Mountain without a tour. I also include less crowded alternatives, such as Red Valley and Ausangate Trek.
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Snapshot: Hike Rainbow Mountain in Peru
Why is Rainbow Mountain so Famous
Rainbow Mountain (Vinicunca) became popular to the rest of the world almost overnight. The local communities have known about it for generations, but it wasn’t until 2015 that photos of the striped rainbow-like slopes began circulating online.
The original name of the mountain in the Quechua language is “Vinicunca“, which literally means “necklace of colours”. The vibrant colors come from layers of iron minerals and sediments. Many believe that climate change and the snow melt exposed the colours but not everyone agrees with this theory.
Day tours from Cusco make Rainbow Mountain easy to reach. So, over the years, a remote spot became one of Peru’s biggest attractions, after Machu Picchu.
How Crowded is Rainbow Mountain, Really?
Rainbow Mountain is one of the most crowded attractions I’ve been to in Peru. But there are ways to avoid crowds. This being said, if you’re taking a bus tour from Cusco, expect a busy trail and queues for the classic photo.
We visited Rainbow Mountain with a bus tour from Cusco. At the parking lot, when we arrived, there were already a lot of people. So naturally the trail was very crowded. At the top, our guide recommended a spot to take pictures without the crowds. This was just around the corner of where everyone was queuing. So I’d recommend looking for the same spot.
Most Rainbow Mountain tours leave Cusco around 4 am and the trail tends to be the busiest between 9 am and 1 pm. If you’re looking to avoid the crowds, visit in the shoulder months like April or October and visit the quieter trails nearby, such as Red Valley. Read below for more suggestion on Rainbow Mountain alternatives.
6 Ways to Avoid Crowds at Rainbow Mountain Peru
From my Rainbow Mountain hike and after talking to local guides, I’ve learned that there are some tricks to visit Rainbow Mountain without the crowds. Here are a few options for you to consider.
1. Hike Rainbow Mountain (Vinicunca) in the Afternoon
Most tours leave Cusco around 4 am and arrive at the trailhead around the same time. But, some agencies also offer afternoon departures. This costs almost double the standard tour though. Another tradeoff is uncertain weather. In the afternoon, rain is more common than in the morning.
So, you may get a quieter trail, but you may risk to have grey skies and pay twice the price.
2. Visit Rainbow Mountain Without a Tour
One way to visit Rainbow Mountain without a tour is by taking a bus collectivo from Cusco to Checacupe. Then you need to take a taxi, that can cost around 100 soles.
If you stay overnight in Checacupe, you can hike Rainbow Mountain early in the morning before the Cusco tour buses arrive. I cover more about how to visit Rainbow Mountain without a tour in the section below.
3. Hike in the Shoulder Season in April or October
If you hike Rainbow Mountain in April or October, you’re likely to come across less visitors. But the drawback is weather. You could get lucky with blue skies or you could see very little if it rains or snows.
I visited Rainbow Mountain in September and had great weather. But there were many people on the trail.
4. Hike to Red Valley Nearby
The Red Valley is located just beyond Rainbow Mountain. The trailhead is the same but Red Valley sees considerably less tourists. The landscape is also different, with red slopes on each side. I’d set aside at least 1 hour to hike into Red Valley.
To enter Red Valley you’ll need to pay an extra fee at the entrance.
5. Try Hiking Ausangate Trek (or Palccoyo) Instead
We had just finished the 5 day Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu, so didn’t do the Ausangate Trek. But if I were to go back, I’d definitely add it to my itinerary.
The Ausangate Trek is a 5 to 6 day trek that circles Mount Ausangate, one of the highest peaks in the Andes. The trek follows the trail to Rainbow Mountain but it goes beyond it to more alpine lakes, glaciers and herds of alpacas.
Another option is visiting Palccoyo Mountain, which is famous for its three colourful hills and spiky rock formations. The hike is also easier compared to Rainbow Mountain and takes about 1 to 2 hours.
6. Hike Pallay Punchu near Cusco
Pallay Punchu (or Pallay Poncho) is a lesser known alternative to Rainbow Mountain located about 3.5 hours south of Cusco. The reason for the name is that the multicoloured rock formations resemble the patterns of a traditional Andean poncho.
The hike to the viewpoint takes around 1.5 to 2 hours, reaching an altitude of nearly 4,900 meters. So, proper acclimatization is essential. But, it’s a great option for those looking to explore less touristy hikes in South America.
Rainbow Mountain With or Without a Tour
To get to Rainbow Mountain from Cusco, you can visit with or without a tour. While a tour is easier and the most popular option, going independently allows you to avoid the crowds.
Visiting Rainbow Mountain with a Tour
A standard day tour to Rainbow Mountain includes transport, a guide, breakfast and lunch. It’s a long day and you usually leave Cusco around 4 am. You’ll spend a lot of time driving and sitting in the van. The roads are also bumpy, especially the last section to the parking lot. Before you book with any company check whether the entrance fee is included, as it often isn’t.
We booked our tour in Cusco the day before and the prices we paid in person were not very different to those online. Honestly though, having a guide for the day didn’t add much to the experience. It was nice not to think about the logistics, but we didn’t get any additional perks from the tour.
Rainbow Mountain Without a Tour
Visiting Rainbow Mountain without a tour is totally possible but it requires some planning. From Cusco take a colectivo (shared van) to Cusipata or Checacupe (1.5–2 hours), then hire a taxi to the trailhead (another 1–1.5 hours).
You’ll pay the entrance fee at the checkpoint near the trailhead. If you want to visit Red Valley, that’s usually another 10 soles, also paid in cash onsite.
It usually costs a bit more to visit Rainbow Mountain without a tour, but if you find some people to split the taxi costs, you’ll manage to save a bit. Staying at hostels usually helps to meet other backpackers with similar travel plans.
Best Time to Visit Rainbow Mountain
The best time to visit Rainbow Mountain is during the dry season, from May to September. During these months, you’re more likely to get clear skies, dry trails and vibrant colors. But, it’s also the most popular time, so expect more crowds.
The rainy season runs from November to March, and while it’s quieter, poor visibility can ruin the view. Sometimes the trail becomes also inaccessible and the mountain might be covered in snow.
We hiked to Rainbow Mountain in September and had a great sunny day.
How Difficult is the Rainbow Mountain Hike?
The Rainbow Mountain hike is moderately difficult, not as much for the terrain as for the high altitude. The hike is about 6-7 km round trip and reaches over 5,000 m (16,500 ft) of elevation.
But, if you’re concerned about the physical demand, you can also rent a horse to the bottom of Rainbow Mountain for about 60–100 soles. You’ll still need to hike the last hill though.
Rainbow Mountain Altitude Sickness: How to Prepare
After hiking some high altitude treks in South America, such as Salkantay, Huayhuash and Cerro Toco, I can assure you that to avoid altitude sickness on Rainbow Mountain, you’ll need proper acclimatization. The summit sits at 5,036 m (16,500 ft), well above Cusco at about 3,400 m.
Being fit doesn’t reduce your risk of altitude illness. This is why these tips below can help you avoid ruining a day trip to Rainbow Mountain.
- Acclimate in Cusco: Spend at least 2 days in Cusco (3,400 m) before hiking Rainbow Mountain. Let your body adjust gradually. No need to rush it.
- Stay Hydrated: Drink lots of water, but avoid alcohol and heavy meals before your hike. In fact, dehydration makes symptoms worse.
- Take it Slow: During the hike, go at a steady pace, take breaks, and don’t push yourself too hard. You’ll notice that you’re getting out of breath much faster.
- Try Coca Leaves or Tea: Locals swear by coca tea or chewing coca leaves, which can help with mild altitude symptoms (available everywhere in Cusco).
- Consider Altitude Pills: Talk to a doctor about acetazolamide (Diamox) or natural supplements, if you’re prone to altitude sickness.
- Know the Symptoms: Watch for headache, nausea, dizziness or shortness of breath. If symptoms get worse, descend immediately.
If hiking at high altitudes in Peru is not your thing, consider doing a day trip to Sacred Valley instead.
How to Fit Rainbow Mountain Into Your Cusco Itinerary
If you’ve just arrived in Cusco, don’t do the Rainbow Mountain hike the next day. Plan it for day 3 or 4 at the earliest, as you get adjusted to the high altitude in Cusco, which is located at 3,400 m of elevation. On my first day in Cusco, I was constantly out of breath.
Consider doing a walking tour in Cusco the first day, take a day trip to Sacred Valley the next and leave some flexibility in your itinerary in case weather is not great.
We decided to first visit Cusco and do a 5 day Salkantay trek to Machu Picchu. Once we got back to Cusco, we first did a relaxing one day trip to Sacred Valley before the Rainbow Mountain hike.
If you’re looking for more itinerary ideas, read my guide on how to visit Lima, Cusco and Lake Titicaca in 2 weeks or how to spend 3 weeks in Peru.
Is Rainbow Mountain Worth it? Our Experience
The scenery while driving up the valley is magnificent. Lamas, alpacas and horses can be seen everywhere! The short trek starts at 4,900 m (15,091 ft) and takes about 1.5 hours to reach the highest point of 5,036 m (16,522 ft).
We personally did not find the hike challenging, as we spent enough time at high altitudes, especially during the Salkantay trek. But, if you’re coming straight from Cusco give yourself enough time to acclimatize. Many people on the path were struggling and had to return to the bus because of headache and fatigue.
Since we had some time to spare, we decided to visit the Red Valley as well. It’s just next to the Rainbow Mountain. The valley is famous for its vivid red colour, as the name suggests. For a moment I felt like on Mars! Be advised, that in order to enter the valley, you need to pay an additional entrance fee (around 10/20 Sol).
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