5-Day Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu – The Best Alternative Route

The Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu is a 74 km (46 miles) hiking trail. As an alternative route to the Inca trail, it is less crowded but but also slightly more difficult. The trail starts near Cusco, in Mollepata and finished on the peaks of Machu Picchu.

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Trek Overview & Map

The Salkantay trek to Machu Picchu was one of our highlights in Peru. The trek takes you through high altitudes and different landscapes in just 5 days. The trek culminates with Machu Picchu and it’s impressive archeological discoveries.

Day 1: Mollepata – Humantay Lake – Soraypampa

At 4am, we were picked up from our hostel in Cusco and brought by bus to Mollepata. After a large breakfast and another hour of driving, we were ready to start the Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu. Compared to the other days, the first was short and served as acclimatization to the high altitude.

We reached our first campsite just on time for lunch. After that, we walked towards Soraypampa (3,900 m / 12,795 feet). We then began the trek to Humantay lake (4,200 m / 13,780 feet).

I’m not gonna lie, the lack of oxygen made the short hike quite strenuous. Once at the top though, the magnetic blue colour of the glacier lake made us forget about all the efforts. The view was simply breathtaking.

In spite of Humantay lake’s beauty, the highlight of the first day was definitely the night sky. We saw a sky full of bright stars. We could also see the Milky Way very clearly. Unfortunately, it was very cold and I was in too much disbelief to think of grabbing my camera. So this time around, you’ll just have to trust me!

Day 2: Soraypampa – Chaullay

The second day of our Salkantay trek to Machu Picchu strated with a warm coca tea at 5am. At 6:30am, we were already on our way. Our destination was the Salkantay pass (4,600 m / 15,092 feet), the highest point of the trek. On the way up, we met mules, horses and other out-of-breath tourists. What’s sure is that we were all in awe with the majestic views of the mountains around us.

At the top, we enjoyed the sight of the snowy peaks of Salkantay (6,264 m / 20,551 feet). It is the second highest mountain in the Cusco region, after Ausangate – and of the Vilcabamba mountain range.

Unfortunately though, the landscape as we saw it is the result of some drastic changes. In February 2020 a large section of the glacier fell off and into one of the lakes below. This incident caused a large quantity of water to flow out of the lake and down the valley. The result was a mudslide that tragically killed several people of the neighbouring villages.

Before the downhill, the clouds started to cover the white peaks bringing in fog and a cool breeze. Two hours on from the snowy and rocky views, we were walking through green and flourishing forests. Our next stop on the Salkantay trek to Machu Picchu was the campsite at Chaullay. After a good meal and some chatting with the group, it was already time to go to bed. Another early morning was ahead of us.

Day 3: Chaullay – Lucmabamba

This morning was warmer compared to the previous days. However, warmth and tropical temperature also means more mosquitos. Make sure to bring some repellent with you, as this could really make the difference to your overall experience.

On this day, we trekked across the Santa Teresa valley. We enjoyed views of waterfalls, orchids, avocado trees, granadilla (similar to maracuja) and coffee plantation fields. Then to cool down, we stopped for a swim at the side of the river.

After arriving at our campsite, we explored the local organic coffee farm. Here we learnt about the coffee production process, from fruit to bean to grounded coffee. In fact, coffee is the main farming industry for the people in the jungle. Originally, it was brought to the Cusco region by the Spanish during the colonial time.

After 3 days of walking, there was nothing better than a hot spring. Our muscles literally thanked us for it. The hot spring at Santa Teresa was an optional activity. But, its 4 pools of medium to hot water, were a welcome add-on to the trekking experience.

Day 4: Lucmabamba – Aguas Calientes

For our final breakfast, our chef woke us up with a huge cake. This is not very typical on any treks we’ve experienced before, but the sweet wake up was more than welcome.

As with every other morning, we started the hike very early. On this day, the Salkantay trek to Machu Picchu took us through the famous Inca Trail. On the way we visited the archaeological site of Llactapata, located right in front of Machu Picchu.

From a distance, we were able to see the Machu Picchu archaeological site. Also, we enjoyed the views of Huayna Picchu and Machu Picchu mountains. Machu Picchu means “Old mountain” in Quechua. This indigenous language is spoken even today by people living primarily in the Peruvian Andes.

We continued our Salkantay trek to Machu Picchu with a 2 hour downhill hike. Then we arrived at Hidroelectrica train station to have lunch. Afterwards, we reached the train tracks, which we followed until Aguas Calientes. The trail we took was the same as the one the American professor Hiram Bingham followed. He used this trail before rediscovering the long lost city of Machu Picchu.

Day 5: Aguas Calientes – Machu Picchu – Hidroelectrica – Cusco

When we started the Salkantay trek to Machu Picchu, we decided to avoid public transportation whenever possible. Reaching Machu Picchu was no different! In fact, there are two options to reach the entrance to the archeological site. You can either take a bus from Aguas Calientes or you can hike the mountain. We went for the second option!

We started hiking around 5am, as soon as the gates to the hike opened. After many steps, we reached the top just on time for our expected entrance time. The experience was amazing and would recommend it to anyone!

With our group, we had a guided tour of the archeological site. We then continued the visit with a trek to the Machu Picchu mountain. Mainly thanks to the engineering abilities of the Incas, we are still able today to visit the temples, terraces, and farming fields. These areas were once used by its community. When it was first discovered, the site was covered in thick vegetation and in a state of disrepair. Today, it is protected by the UNESCO World Heritage and constitutes one of the 7 Wonders of the World.

After climbing Machu Picchu mountain, we had to make our way down to Aguas Calientes. We walked back to Hidroelectrica, where a minivan took us back to Cusco.  

Frequently asked questions

1. Can I do the Salkantay trek to Machu Picchu on my own?
   There are many backpackers going on the trek without a tour guide. Also, All Trails provides great insights on how to plan the trek independently. This being said, you would need to carry a lot of weight if you camp on your own. Considering the elevation gain and general altitude, we thought going with an organized local tour was a better idea.
2. What are some benefits of booking with an organized tour?
   On the tour there is a main guide. A chef prepares all the meals. A mule carries your heavier weight. There is also a transfer to the hot springs on the third day. Obviously, there are more expensive tours than others. But, after talking to some hikers that organised the trek on their own, the difference in price to a tour is not great. It would just be a different experience.
3. Should I book the Salkantay trek to Machu Picchu in advance?
   We booked the Salkantay trek online before departure, but going back, we would avoid it. Firstly, because prices online are higher than those charged in person. Secondly, because there are so many tour companies offering the trek that there is rarely a shortage. So, in case you are flexible with the dates, my advice is to book the trek once you arrive in Cusco.
4. What is the best time of the year to do the Salkantay trek to Machu Picchu?
   When planing the Salkantay trek, it’s important to keep in mind that Peru has two main seasons. The dry season goes from May to October and the rainy from November to April. It’s advised to do the trek during the dry season. During the rainy season some tour operators will not operate and landslides can block some of the paths.
5. Do you really feel the altitude sickness?
   Yes, you can. Don’t underestimate high altitudes, as it can be dangerous and ruin your entire trip. Inform yourself before the trek and plan enough time to acclimatise in Cusco. Drink enough water at all times, pack some altitude sickness pills and walk at a steady pace. Luckily, we did not feel sick at any altitude. But, we met several people that had to interrupt their trip because of it.
6. What is a must-have item during the trip?
   Walking sticks will become your best friend during this trek. If you don’t have a pair, your tour agency can lend you a pair.
7. What do you eat during the trek?
   All the meals are prepared and served by the tour chef. We were very lucky as our food was always delicious and varied from one day to another. We had vegetarian food as well. Breakfast was mainly porridge and warm tea. Lunch and dinner were rice, veggies, meat and other proteins. In addition, we carries plenty of snacks for the entire trip.
8. Where do you wash yourself?
   Well the truth is that you don’t really. We carried wet wipes with us and in some occasions there were showers on the way at an extra cost. Aside of Day 1, all the other days had a showering option.
9. How do I reach Machu Picchu from Aguas Calientes?
   You can either walk or take the bus from Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu. In case your admission ticket to the ruins includes the Machu Picchu mountain, you might want to take the bus. The hike to the entrance point of Machu Picchu is already 1 hour up. From here it is an additional 2 hours to the top of the Machu Picchu mountain. If you need to catch a bus later from Hidroelectrica to return back to Cusco, you should account for an additional 4 hours of walking. This being said, we decided to walk instead of taking the bus. Our legs at the end of the day were pretty much broken (no regrets though).
10. Should I go back to Cusco on the last day or spend one extra day in Aguas Calientes?
    If you do the trek with a tour, but still want to spend some extra days on your own at Machu Picchu, you can do so by informing the tour company. In that case, they can arrange a bus or train transportation for you on another day (at an extra cost).

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